Saturday, May 18, 2013
Thursday, May 16, 2013
pinched out 5/8" sway back adjustment(need to move up a bit)
pinched a little wedge shape out of each of the front straps to stop them falling off and giving a nicer angle.
took in the back darts by 3/8" (will need to pinch out 5/8" after looking at these photos)
added 5/8" to underarm seams as the dress was pulling above my bust.
i need to lower the bust dart
took 6" off the hem. (hopefully will be 1" above knee
anyone know of anything else that stand out to them????
Wednesday, May 15, 2013
Sunday, May 12, 2013
Friday, May 10, 2013
Tuesday, May 7, 2013
Well I thought I'd give bound buttholes ago finally...they are actually not too hard to make, but I wasn't happy with the uneven look of my first one so I am going to research and find some other methods incase I like them better.
I have also been working on the 1910's blouse, and it's been a real eye opener and I'm enjoying it, so far the fusible interfacing has worked well but it was really hard getting the collar stitched up. I have been using a pressing cloth and the iron on polyester setting (that seems to work well)
Thursday, May 2, 2013
I have tried my hand at french seams for the first time(they aren't actually that hard) but the fabric probably wasn't the right one for french seams.
I'm undecided about if I will use fusible interfacing or not...hopefully if i get a black or navy interfacing it wont look terrible. The other thing I figured out is the markings on the pattern that look like button placement markings are actually just the straight grain markings so I'm going to have to work out the button placement on my own. I will not be making this in long sleeves i will just have elbow length sleeves that gather into a little strip.
Monday, April 15, 2013
Thursday, April 4, 2013
So lately I have been loving Chloe's blouses and their oversized pastel jackets...but first I noticed most of their lovely pussy-bow blouses in many shades of cream to peach are silk crepe de shine...well I can say I have never worked with anything like silk crepe de chine(still working on old cotton sheet fabrics!) but hopefully I can move up in the world and challenge myself to some silk....
Monday, March 25, 2013
but best of all the blog entry also has a nicely made tutorial how to use your own fabric photos and the pattern to visualise how your sewing projects will look.... the example photo is this pattern from Eva Dress and is a blouse from 1928. p.s i only had 15 mins to learn how to use the gimp program so i still have to go in and get rid of those white bits.
Thursday, March 21, 2013
Tuesday, March 19, 2013
Monday, March 18, 2013
I was after a long skinny design that would work on decorative area of blouses I'm sewing, I thought this one was cute so here it is.
Sunday, March 17, 2013
To make a 'box-pleated' ruche:— Cut the material on the exact straight twice the width you want the finished ruche to be. Fold over from both edges toward the middle, slightly lapping the cut edges in the centre. See diagram 2.
Form the pleats by folding first to the right and then to the left. Tack along the centre and then machine right down the middle if you want an even pleat each side, or if you want an uneven effect, stitch to one side of the centre line. See diagram 3
. A very pretty effect is given to ruching if after making the box-pleating, the edge of each pleat is caught up as shown in diagram 4.
Box-pleating makes a nice finish on the edges of collars and cuffs. To do the flat pleating, such as is best for this, cut the material on the exact cross way. Fold down the centre very evenly, making; the two cut edges quite even. Pleat first to riain and then to left, or you can make the pleats to be all one way if you prefer it.
Tack or stitch the pleats along one edge only. This edge is put to the collar outside edge and cuffs edge. The result is a nice stand-out effect.
GATHERED ruching is very lovely if made in silk such as taffeta. The edges of this should be frayed. To fray silk the material must be cut on the exact crossway. Allow three times the length you require the ruche to go on. Make any joins as neatly as possible. With the scissors or a blunt knife, gently drag the edge of the crossway silk.
You will find that one way of the material will fray oetter than the other, so always test a small piece oi the silk first, when you have one side frayed turn to the reverse side of the material to do the other side. Thus you would work on the right side of the silk to do one edge and you would work on the wrong side to do the other edge. Be sure to test the edges first on a small piece.
See diagram 5 for frayed runche.
Tuesday, March 12, 2013